When a Central Asian fashion designer uses fashion to gain LGBT visibility. 

Prague Pride is hosting a rather unusual event: the Silk Road Fashion show designed and displayed by LGBT persons from Central Asia. Bakhodur is a gay fashion designer, born in Uzbekistan, grew up in Tajikistan, studied in Kazakhstan and spent some time in Kyrgyzstan. In his art, he mixes fabrics, patterns, decorations and accessories from various Central Asian cultures to build an LGBT identity native to his region. Mansur is an activist from the same region. They both live in Europe now. For security reasons, real names have been altered.

It seems almost impossible to find positive representations of LGBT people in Central Asia. Can you explain to us who controls the narrative?

Mansur: There are three interlinked centres of power that shape and control the narrative about LGBT people: religion, culture and the state. Islam portrays LGBT people as ‘great sinners’. Some radical imams have been adopting a very conservative interpretation of Islam. They openly call for a ‘solution of the problem with LGBT people’ via preaching, social media and official media channels. Some even advocate the use of physical violence against LGBT people.

In terms of culture, the reputation of a family is very important – and in Central Asia this term refers more to a clan, which can include dozens of people as families are extended. People live in very closely-knitted communities and information, as well as rumours are shared rapidly and can impact the family socio-economic capital, particularly when people negotiate weddings or other major arrangements. Awareness of LGBT identity or people is low, and faced with the unknown, people rapidly retract into fear and stigma as they believe it could affect their ‘good name’.

Finally, the state does not promote the integration or positive image of LGBT people, quite the contrary: in Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan homosexual acts are punishable by imprisonment. In Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, the law on paper does not discriminate but in practice, police often blackmail LGBT people, harass them and in certain cases torture them in detention.

Despite those obstacles and real risks, some members of the LGBT community embrace their original culture and claim their identity through art and creativity. What prompted you to use fashion as a form of activism?

Bakhodur: I don’t consider myself to be an activist. I am an artist, while Mansur is indeed an activist. But I enjoy very much what we do together. Unfortunately, I cannot organize such a fashion show in Central Asia, as it would immediately destroy my family who still lives there. Hopefully one day I will be able to come out from the shadow.

I understand the value of activism but as an artist, I find its tools often boring and not attractive as such. When I told Mansur there are other ways, including art, to raise the issue, he was at first very sceptical. But when I showed him some designs and how they embody LGBT identities, he gradually warmed up to the idea and eventually he even helped me in some of the design work. In my creations, I avoid all gender stereotypes, and design simple models, which you will be able to appreciate in Prague during the Pride.

Bakhodur, in which way do you think LGBT people from Central Asia will be able to claim their identity through your collections and art? Could the clothes you design help less conservative people in the region soften their views about LGBT people from their own country? 

Bakhodur: To tell you the truth, my work with Mansur over the years has helped me change my mind. Perhaps my collection has not impacted large groups of LGBT people in Central Asia, but it has certainly changed me. I am in the process of stepping outside the shadow, and to do that, I need to be able to give myself fully to my creativity, to believe in my art – which I cannot do in my home country, just as many other talented designers who have to follow strict rules if they want to have an acceptable career. The irony here is that in Central Asia, the works of gay fashion designers such as D&G, Armani are extremely popular, including among openly homophobic people who wear their clothes. So in the long run, I think fashion can change people’s perceptions.